pinon pine cones at the perfect stage for mugolio
Ask most foragers what mugolio is and they’ll tell you it’s a syrup made by infusing unripe pine cones in sugar. But a quick google search brings up a New York Times article from 2011 that says it originated in the Italian alps and is made from the buds of the mugo pine.
Confused? So was I. After finding an online vendor who also describes it as being made from “pine cone buds,” I’ve decided to attribute the confusion to the language barrier. The syrup is sold by an Italian company and my best guess is that they meant immature pine cones (pine cones at the bud stage?). I’m also guessing the author of the article was a food writer, not a forager, someone who didn’t realize that the term “pine cone buds” is pretty confusing in English.
Originally made from Pinus mugo, you can use any immature pine cone, as well as the cones of several other conifers (fir, spruce, hemlock). Smaller cones seem to deliver more flavor, although I’ve also used larger cones and cut them up to expose more surface area for the infusion. The important thing is that the cones be green. A woody brown cone will not make a delicious syrup.
The recipe is ridiculously simple and almost foolproof. And the syrup is so delicious that once you taste it, you’ll find yourself gathering pine cone buds every spring.
WHAt you’ll need to make mugolio
- equal parts immature pine cones and sugar
- water (probably)
WHAt you’ll DO to make mugolio
If you live where pinon pines grow, consider yourself lucky. These are my favorites, and make a syrup that tastes the way the southern Rockies smell on a hot summer day. Measure your pine cones and combine them with an equal volume of sugar in a glass jar. The choice of sugar is up to you. I prefer light brown sugar, but you can use white, turbinado, dark brown…basically whatever you have on hand. Each type will bring its own flavor to the party, with white sugar being the most neutral.
Shake or stir the two ingredients to combine, then put a lid on the jar and leave the jar on your counter where you can keep an eye on things. Some people set their jar out in the sun to speed the process, but I’m not giving the neighborhood raccoons a chance to mess with my mugolio.
While some mugolio recipes tell you the pine cones and sugar will begin to ferment within the first week or so, that has never been the case for me. If your mugolio DOES begin to ferment, you’ll want to catch it before it makes a mess on the countertop. If you see lots of bubbles filling up your jar, open the lid to let out the fermentation gases.
Over the next four weeks, you’ll notice the sugar begin to liquefy as the pine cones macerate in the sugar. Once I see a few inches of syrup at the bottom of the jar, I start inverting the jar every few days, sometimes opening the jar to give it a stir and encourage more liquefaction.
After a month your sugar should be fully liquified. (I find that the larger crystals of turbinado sugar take a little longer.) Use a rubber scraper to transfer the pine cones and liquid into a small saucepan and heat over medium heat. This will loosen up the syrup. If the syrup still feels too thick to pour easily, add a small amount of water, a few Tablespoons at a time, until the syrup is thin enough that you can easily separate the cones from the syrup by pouring through a strainer.
That’s it! The syrup can be refrigerated or water bath canned for long term storage. Canning may or may not be necessary, depending on how much water you add at the end, but I like the security of knowing it’s safe. Use mugolio in cocktails, drizzled over ice cream, or to take this wild pear crisp WAY over the top.
Clayton says
Thanks for sharing your first-hand experience!
I’ve been interested in mugolio for a while but I am confused by whether it’s actually a fermented product (or merely macerated and aged). Every post I’ve read about it seems confused or contradictory on this point. I would think that if there was active fermentation then the whole thing would eventually turn into alcohol or vinegar. My impression is that the sugar level is high enough that very little actual fermentation takes place, as you suggest. Does that sound correct?
Ellen says
I share your confusion! I have made mugolio multiple times and have never experienced fermentation, although I have produced some very delicious syrups. I believe that the high proportion of sugar inhibits fermentation, but I can’t explain why other people experience fermentation, unless they aren’t adding as much sugar as I do. And I can’t imagine that a fermented flavor would be preferred in this instance. Also, please forgive my late response. I actually answered you back in December but had a website crash and couldn’t remember which comment was waiting for my reply until I stumbled across it today.
Donna says
I have a blue spruce and the pine cones are brown and did I wait too long to retrieve the cones to make the syrup I am so wanting to make this thanks so much
Ellen says
Hi Donna, it depends on whether they are flexible or dry. Some spruce cones are brown (color) even when they’re green (immature)! Are your cones flexible and easy to cut through? If so, they are immature enough to be used. If they’re dry, difficult to cut with a knife, and the scales are already falling off, then they’re too mature. good luck!